I arrived in Peru in March 2010, hell-bent on hiking Machu Picchu then exploring the rest of the continent. Natural disasters, including mudslides, have a way forcing one to change those plans. All told, I went in and out of Peru four times over a 16-month period. I hiked and surfed. I worked in a health clinic. I recovered from malaria. I went to the Amazon jungle. I spent time in the highlands. I ate ceviche. And guinea pigs. I had an apartment four blocks from the ocean. Other than the US and Mexico, I have spent more time in Peru than any other country.