Dec 23, 2016 - Wanderlust    15 Comments

Flashback Friday | A Christmas Miracle

I tightly clutched my St Christopher’s medal, and whispered a prayer “protect me”.  Even though I consider myself Catholic, I’m not a very good one.  Perhaps all this time in these heavily Catholic countries is wearing  off on me.  I gave Christopher one last squeeze, and tucked him safely under my shirt.  In reality, I was praying for a miracle.  A miracle that I would 1. finish and 2.not crash.

I took a drug test [they don’t let anyone under the influence of drugs or alcohol ride], took a swig of some vile-tasting alcoholic beverage, [oh, the irony] sprinkled some of the same liquid on my bicycle tires and the ground, and said a prayer to PanchaMama.  I wouldn’t want to go pissing off Mother Earth with my prayer to the patron saint of travel.

I solemnly swear that I am up to no good.

I  loaded up on the safety gear…elbow pads, knee pads, helmet, bright safety vest, wind-suit….  Had there been more, I would have put it on too.  What in the world had possessed me to sign up for a 40+ mile bike ride from La Paz, Bolivia to Senda Verde, Bolivia…a bike ride that changes in elevation from 15,900 ft to 3600 ft…a bike ride that travels a road with the moniker World’s Most Dangerous Road?  Did I mention that I didn’t learn to ride a bike until I was 18, and I have never been very graceful on 2 wheels? Did I mention it was Christmas Day? In Bolivia?

To be fair, it’s technically not considered the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” anymore. Due to the construction of a new highway close by, which directs most traffic away from its path, they’ve recently upgraded the trail’s nickname to a much more simple, passive and inviting moniker… “The Death Road”.

I’d hate to see the new road that has earned the name of World’s Most Dangerous Road

The ‘Practice’ Death Road

The start of the Death Road is located around an hour outside of La Paz, high up in the mountains.

The road’s twists and turns through the jungle as it winds down the steep road make it a scary path to travel. There are very few barriers stopping you from falling off the edge which makes it more dangerous than roads in other mountainous areas. The dirt road is full of potholes and scattered gravel meaning you have to stay focused for the entire four hours it takes to bike the road, bouncing over dips and bumps.

It was cold and rainy and as we sped down the highway I became soaked to the skin and started wondering why I’d even signed up for this in the first place. It was so misty that I could hardly see the view of the valley below which gave me a false sense of security because I couldn’t see how steep the drop off was to the right side of me.

All of a sudden there was a large BANG!

The tire of the person who was riding in front of me burst and rubber flew into the air.  As a side note, whenever I am driving on the interstate, this is my worst fear.

We pulled over and the we had a look a the damage. The tire had completely exploded, leaving nothing but loose rubber flapping around the metal rim.

At the top of the Death Road we received another briefing.  “Try not to stand up on your bike if you’re not a confident mountain biker. Try not to grip the brakes the entire time. Leave a good 10 meters between yourself and the person in front of you. Stay alert,” our guide told us.  I mentally calculate how far 10 meters is.  [about 30 feet or so for those wondering]

Under the guide of our tour leaders, we rode slowly five minutes further down the road before stopping for a sandwich and getting a new tire put on the damaged bike.  We piled into the van after this biking practice and snack and set off for the Death Road. It was eerily quiet as we drove.

I’m not sure what was going through everyone else’s head, but I had visions of my tire bursting and me losing control of my bike, being thrown to my death in the valley below.  Or someone else taking me out.  Either would be bad.

Dramatic, yes.  Out of the realm of possibility, absolutely not…

What they don’t tell you:  The Death Road is Quite Stunning

Perhaps one of the biggest dangers of the Death Road is that it’s so damn beautiful.  Valleys of green surround you and with each twist of the road there’s a chance you’ll come across a waterfall  or two cascading down from the top of the mountain.

When the rain stopped and I got hot from the exercise, it was easier to notice the beautiful vistas around me.  But I didn’t want to look too hard – I needed all my concentration to stay safe on the Death Road.

As we bounced down the beginning of the dirt track on the most dangerous road in the world, I began to realize that it was near impossible NOT to hold my brakes the entire time.  I’m the girl who rides my brakes on the Swamp Rabbit Trail; I most certainly was doing it here.  As soon as I let go, I picked up speed and felt as though I was going to lose control.

So the whole way down the mountain I gripped the brakes. Gently at some points and more vigorously at others.

Perhaps this gives you an idea of why I clinched the brakes so much.  At times, I could hardly see the rider in front of me.

My hands are not the strongest part of me.   So listen to me now: gripping mountain bike brakes for four hours was extremely painful.  Excruciatingly painful, but necessary.

So many times I was tempted to give up and ride in the van that was slowly following us down the road, but I held out.

No, we did not all fall over the edge of the cliff…we’re just taking a break.

Almost the end of me

The only time I managed to let go of the handlebars was when I wanted to fiddle with my camera which was slung across my chest…

And this was nearly the death of me.

I’d been recording video on my camera for awhile and wanted to preserve the battery life. So I let go of the handlebar with my right hand and, while looking down, I tried to feel for the off button.  BIG mistake.  

HUGE MISTAKE.

All of a sudden I found myself on the other side of the road, dangerously close to the edge. As I tried to swerve away from the cliff below, I jerked the handlebars too hard and fell towards the edge.

I felt as though I was moving in slow motion.

I think I screamed and tried to right myself but to no avail.

I was falling.

Thud.

I had landed on a patch of ground that jutted out over the cliff. Just behind where I’d fallen, entangled in my bike, was the open air leading to the bottom of the mountain.

In front of where I’d fallen was a sharp drop.   I watch the camera tumble over the cliff.

I’d literally fallen within centimeters of my death or serious injury.

“OH MY GOD. Are you okay?” the guide pulled up behind me, out of breath.

“Yeah, I’m fine.” I tried to laugh. It sounded strangled.

“You scared me!” he said as he helped me up.

“Sorry!” I replied.

The End of the Road

I was shaken after my fall but not too shaken to keep on going. With hands tensed on the brakes, sending shooting pains up my arms, I managed to finish the Death Road with the other people in my group.

It felt like a massive achievement.

But the biggest reward for me was that I was still alive. My fall was a close call and really put a new spin on the term ‘living on the edge’.

Is it an experience I’d ever repeat?  Hell no.  Am I glad I did it when I did?  Absolutely.  Let’s just say I was never as happy to see a suspect swimming pool as I was when we got to Senda Verde lodge.

15 Comments

  • Wow! What a journey. I’m really glad that you’re okay after your fall! That was a close one. Sorry to hear that you lost your camera though but it’s nothing compared to losing your life!!!
    Lauren recently posted…Bermuda 4 Day ItineraryMy Profile

    • Yeah, cameras are nothing compared to life and health. And it was my backup, smaller camera…not the good one.

  • I was clinched to my computer just reading your story. That was certainly a close call. I wouldn’t of been able to continue on my bike after that. I would of probably been to shaken up. That was very brave of you to get back on the bike and finish. I’m sure that’s a Christmas you’ll never forget. Thanks for sharing and linking up to #WeekendWanderlust. Happy New Year!!
    Carmen | Carmen’s Luxury Travel recently posted…The Birth Place, Church of NativityMy Profile

    • It was really a pride thing; I just couldn’t make myself ride in the van as long as I was physically able to continue. If I’d had time to think about it, I doubt I would have been able to continue.

  • Wow. I always wonder, when I see pictures or videos or these harrowing rides, if the riders have parachutes. Great story.
    Charles McCool recently posted…8 Great Ways to Avoid Baggage FeesMy Profile

    • A parachute would have been a good idea…or guard rails..Although lining the road with guard rails would take the suspense out of it.

  • Oh my gosh, how scary!! The views looked absolutely beautiful but there is absolutely no way I could ever do what you did! I couldn’t imagine how sore your hands much have been after 4 hours of gripping the brakes.
    Valerie recently posted…BIG TRAVEL NEWS! We are going to…My Profile

    • It was awful. My hands were like that for at least a day after and sore up to a week. I definitely did less adrenaline inducing things after that.

  • Wow, what an amazing (and terrifying) experience. The road is beautiful, but in your situation I don’t know that I’d see much of it – I’d be too busy trying not to die! Sorry for the loss of your camera, but man, what an experience. I’m glad you’re safe!!
    Jessi recently posted…Gratitude, Mindfulness, and Travel AdventuresMy Profile

  • Ahhh good for you! I’m not going to lie, this really isn’t on my list of things to do. Maybe a spur of the moment thing when I get down there but right now I know I’m completely ungraceful on a bike and would probably go over the cliff. haha.

    • It wasn’t really on my list of things to do either. It was a spur of the moment thing. I’m not known for my gracefulness on a bike either. I didn’t learn how to ride until I went off to college so I admit this wasn’t one of my brightest ideas.

  • Argh, I was on pins and needles reading this. Obviously, you must not have died on the Death Road and still been able to write this, but I was nervous for you anyways. That road is a combination of both scary and beautiful. Bravo for surviving so that I could enjoy it vicariously.
    Michele {Malaysian Meanders} recently posted…A Look Back Around the Globe in 2014My Profile

    • It was one of those things where at the time, I was more embarrassed than scared. It was only after the fact that I realised how close I came to being a statistic. It took a year or so before I would talk about it, but now that there’s some time between the event and now, it’s a cool travel story.

  • An incredible experience! I decided against it when I was in South America but some of my group went. They were trembling at certain parts! Those photos are great and I was so tense reading this post. It looks so beautiful and I’m sure you must feel very proud to have made it. Thanks for sharing!
    Kate recently posted…Looking back on 2014 & making plans for 2015My Profile

    • yeah…I’m glad I did it when I did…I don’t think I would do it now though.

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